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  #281  
Old 02-12-2012, 08:52 AM
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So, I decided on the detachable magazine trigger guard conversion for my Weatherby. I grew more attached to the idea, and ultimately decided on it. Don't need it, but like the bayonet, I wanted it. It should arrive soon. Hopefully within the next few days, as I have them off work and will have time to install them. Shouldn't take long, but I will at least be more awake.

I also looked into the MWNN conversion, and you were right. It is manufactured by Uberti, but sold by Cimarron I believe. What I don't get is why it isn't even featured on Uberti's website (unless I'm just stupid and can't find it.)
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  #282  
Old 02-12-2012, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFeather View Post
So, I decided on the detachable magazine trigger guard conversion for my Weatherby. I grew more attached to the idea, and ultimately decided on it. Don't need it, but like the bayonet, I wanted it. It should arrive soon. Hopefully within the next few days, as I have them off work and will have time to install them. Shouldn't take long, but I will at least be more awake.

I also looked into the MWNN conversion, and you were right. It is manufactured by Uberti, but sold by Cimarron I believe. What I don't get is why it isn't even featured on Uberti's website (unless I'm just stupid and can't find it.)
A detachable magazine is nice some times, although none of my bolt actions have one :P

I think it's simply cause Cimarron contracted them to build it. It's a lot like you won't see the PPK on Smith and Wessons site and they are the ones who make them for Walther right now, or at least parts of it. Don't see Colts .22 AR on Umarex's site either and they build it for colt, same as the G22 and P22 have the Walther name but are built by Umarex. Granted Umarex owns Walther.

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Jung
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  #283  
Old 02-13-2012, 01:41 PM
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As I said earlier, I'm new to reloading. I understand the basics and generally have no problems. However, there are a few problems that I've had. First the shell holder leaves the shell a little wobbly when in use. A friend who reloads .308 said that it should be snug, which mine is not. I got the shell holder as listed on the package of the die sets, so it isn't the wrong one. I have some pieces of paper in there as a temporary fix. Is it supposed to be like this?

Secondly on occasion, when bedding the bullet, it will get stuck in the die and split the bullet down the middle.



I don't know if you can tell by the picture. (I should probably invest in a better camera...)

I have to hold the bullet in place to the top, but I'm not sure if that is how it is supposed to happen.

Any advice?
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:57 PM
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Most of my shell holders have slight play in them not wobbly but a slight play. If they are wobbly try another shell holder. Which brand holder is it BTW?

In that picture it appears that it crumpled the case, in turn jamming it into the die I've had this happen once it was cause the bullet tipped over. It does appear like yours may have tipped over and caught on the side of the dies, as it appears like it is seated a little deep, the picture may be decieving however . Are you deburring and chamfering? also is it a flat base or a boat-tail? I've never had much problems seating boat-tails, but on smaller diameter bullets like the .224s I have issues with flat-base bullets on occassion. What brand dies are you using too?

Don't let these bumps discourage you either, once you get rolling you'll thoroughly enjoy this hobby.

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Jung
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  #285  
Old 02-13-2012, 05:18 PM
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All of my gear is RCBS.

The shell holder isn't wobbly so that it is falling out, but there is enough play in them that it can leave it slightly off center. I think that is one of the problems with the bullet is that it is slightly off center and catching the edge of the die.

I am deburring and chamfering. And the bullets are boatailed.

A buddy said that it is much easier to reload .308's. I plan on starting, I just never picked up the die sets. I probably should soon. Also need to pick up a .30-30.
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  #286  
Old 02-13-2012, 06:41 PM
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I take it that is .223 then? I've had a couple of them crumple on me, usually flat base bullets though. I have to ride the flat base bullets up often times in bottle neck cases like you said you are having to do, but I've never had a problem with boat-tails tipping over. Are you possibly pulling the casing out slightly after you push it in the shell holder? The casing should slide in easy so this is possible, I've caught myself nearly doing it when I do large amounts of 9mm. Maybe if you turn the shell holder and you notice that the bullet catches on a different part of the die as you rotate the shell holder it could then definitely be off center. In which case I'd get a new shell holder, and I know RCBS would replace it if you sent it to them and there is a problem. Do you have issues with the casings going into the sizing die at all? I haven't noticed much of a difference in either the Lee or the RCBS shell holders either, so there is another option in brands. Reloading equipment is one of the few things where brands equipment is fairly interchangable. Most Dies are of the 7/8 thread and shell holders swap out, outside of the Lee autoprime shell holders. On a side I find that the autoprime is a must for small primers myself, the RCBS hand priming system just doesn't seem to work so well with small primers. I only use a hand priming system too, gives you a little feel.

I will definitely agree with you buddy that .308 is much easier to load for, In fact the only to cases I've had significant problems with are .22-250 and .223, and this is just with flat base bullets wanting to tip over. I did smash in the neck on one .308 though, and that was cause I slightly slid the case out of the shell holder when I let go of it. I don't do much loading for anything under .30 cal. and I much prefer to load straight wall casings to be honest. Most of the dies for straight wall cartridges are made of Carbide, which eliminates the need for lube. There is always the extra step of flaring out the case mouth on straght wall cartridges though, but I don't have much of a problem with that.

I take it beings you only have RCBS, you have the Speer Manual that came with the press. Do you have any of the other reloading books? I'd highly reccomend the Lee book, it's full of a lot of good information. He does like to promote his own stuff in the book though. I'd also recommend the Hornady, Nosler, and Sierra books all of them have good information and load data. I'm sure there are plenty of other good books by bullet manufactures, I am highly awaiting the book that Berger is coming out with. Some of the books have rather nice Balistics charts to get you started to figure out what a load will most likely do. And most of them have a nice introduction write up about each cartridge. I also like to cross check between the books to double check powder charge weights are similar. They may be different do to bullet profiles, but they are generally in the same area. I just remember one particular load for the .300 Winchester Magnum, that was a little over pressured at the starting level.

As you can tell I rather like my reloading lol. It's an extremely addicting hobby, I could go on for hours on the subject.

Regards,

Jung
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  #287  
Old 02-13-2012, 07:10 PM
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Yeah, I forgot to mention it is a .223.

I think the problem is the shell will slightly slide out of place when I'm bringing it up. Another thing I've been trying to get the hang of is keeping the bullet straight on the shell as I'm bringing it up. I think I'm overcompensating and that is what is causing the shell to move.

I haven't had any problems with sizing them. Just bedding the bullet.

I may just need more practice. Problem is, I just ran out of bullets. I might go to Bass Pro tomorrow and pick up a few kinds. That might be a good time to get the die sets. Last time I was there, they were all out of .308. I'll also take a look at some of those books. Is there info in there that I couldn't find online?

And you are right about it being addicting. I started loading some rounds at about 9 this morning. When I looked at a clock, 3 hours had gone by and I didn't even know it. It's very relaxing too.
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  #288  
Old 02-14-2012, 01:12 AM
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yeah I used to try to make sure the bullet was completely straight and ride it all the way up. I've found out that you just have to ease the lever up when seating bullets and make sure they are pretty close to centered. If you run into a hard spot that don't seem right bring the ram back down, and see what the issue is. boat-tails usually center themselve pretty good, flat base bullets like to tip over a little though. The exception is with straight walled cartridges where you flair the neck in a seperate step. In that case flat base bullets seat rather well.

I'm sure you can find all the info on the internet, but some of the information can be put up by anyone who is making their own load, I prefer to go with the company standards, and work from there. Hogden does have a nice data table on their site too if you use their's or IMR's powder. I just like to have the books at my reloading bench for reference. They also all have a nice how to on the whole reloading process, some of them have a different take on some steps and you can find one that works for you.

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Jung
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  #289  
Old 02-17-2012, 02:47 PM
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^ I'll probably look at picking up one of those books when I start reloading .308. Hopefully if I have time Sunday, I'll run to the store and pick up the supplies.

On a side note, I finally got my trigger guard conversion. It's going to take a little more work than I had thought. I have to make sure that the action is the correct distance from the magazine in order to correctly load the round into the chamber, so I'm going to need some shims to make sure they fit properly. They did come with some very detailed instructions, so I should be alright.

It's just going to take time. If it had come 1 day sooner, I would have been able to work on it on my day off... Oh well, what are you going to do?
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:07 PM
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This is a rather good site for reloading data using Hodgdon and IMR powders too. yeah the trigger guard should be rather simple a little trouble shooting is all.

Regards,

Jung
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