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  #301  
Old 02-21-2012, 11:44 PM
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In my searches for the right ammo to use with my Savage, a lot of people said that CCI Mini-Mags work the best (which is currently in my ammo box). The problem is they're around $6 per 100, whereas I can get 550 Remington at Wal-Mart for $15. I may buy that and see how they work through mine, but some people haven't got the best results with them.
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  #302  
Old 02-21-2012, 11:56 PM
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the biggest problem is in the priming, a lot of the bulk packs tend to have duds in them. often time if you turn the round in the chamber it'll fire. Rim fire priming is quite different from centerfire, and often times in the cheap stuff the priming compound just gets on one side of the casing in the cheap stuff. The best cheap stuff is the CCI Blazer I've fired a couple thousand rounds without a single dud.

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Jung
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:04 AM
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Wal-Mart does have some CCI there. I'll check if they have any of that tomorrow.

As far as .22's go, does bullet weight play as a significant part as it does in larger bore rifles?
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:13 AM
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sometimes typically it don't matter unless you step up to a 60 gr. subsonic, many barrels won't stablize it. Otherwise you're pretty good to go.

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Jung
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:18 AM
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That's good. The last store I went to didn't have Mini-Mags, but had a bunch of other CCI that had different weights. I didn't know if that would play a big role or not, so I guess I'll just have to experiment.

That's what I like already about .22's. I can buy 5 different types of ammo, but still not pay more than 50 bucks.
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:56 PM
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I run 168 gn Sierra Match Kings with my M1A's. The 308 bolt actions are all loaded with 175 gn SMK's chronographed at 2650 fps.

The 300 Win Mag gets 190 gn SMK and set at 2900 fps. I've tried different loads with the 300 WinMag and 2900 fps gets me the best accuracy with the 190's. Now that is at 400 and out to 1,000 plus yards. On the other hand it is a tack driver at 100-300 yards with SMK 155 Palma's.

I haven't tried the 155's in the 308's yet.

The .308 Bolt Action 175 gn load is as follow.

Winchester Case
Federal 210 Primer
IMR 4064 power 42.2 grains
175 SMK
OAL Based on Chamber 2.78"

The .308 M1A's Load

Winchester case
Federal 210 Primer
IMR 4064 powder 42.0 grains
168 SMK
OAL 2.79

300 Winchester Magnum

Federal Case
Federal 215 Primer
71.5 grains of RE 22 Powder
Sierra 190 gn SMK
OAL 3.378

If your hand loading a Stoney Point Chamber Gauge is good investment.
Adjusting bullet seating is a must to control bullet jump to the lands.
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALS View Post
I run 168 gn Sierra Match Kings with my M1A's. The 308 bolt actions are all loaded with 175 gn SMK's chronographed at 2650 fps.

The 300 Win Mag gets 190 gn SMK and set at 2900 fps. I've tried different loads with the 300 WinMag and 2900 fps gets me the best accuracy with the 190's. Now that is at 400 and out to 1,000 plus yards. On the other hand it is a tack driver at 100-300 yards with SMK 155 Palma's.

I haven't tried the 155's in the 308's yet.

The .308 Bolt Action 175 gn load is as follow.

Winchester Case
Federal 210 Primer
IMR 4064 power 42.2 grains
175 SMK
OAL Based on Chamber 2.78"

The .308 M1A's Load

Winchester case
Federal 210 Primer
IMR 4064 powder 42.0 grains
168 SMK
OAL 2.79

300 Winchester Magnum

Federal Case
Federal 215 Primer
71.5 grains of RE 22 Powder
Sierra 190 gn SMK
OAL 3.378

If your hand loading a Stoney Point Chamber Gauge is good investment.
Adjusting bullet seating is a must to control bullet jump to the lands.
The ranges I actually am able to shoot is at a max of 200yds. The only other places that offer anything further (a max of 600yds around here) are a good $300+ membership, plus time investments. Which I cannot do.

Anyways, is measuring the velocities really important at these ranges (100-200)? Because first, I'm just starting off, so I have no chronograph, and secondly, I'm still learning the basics of loading.

Also the chamber gauge, how necessary is it? Am I able to do without it?
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFeather View Post
Anyways, is measuring the velocities really important at these ranges (100-200)? Because first, I'm just starting off, so I have no chronograph, and secondly, I'm still learning the basics of loading.
I myself simply go for the most accurate loading, and then figure out my own trejectory by taking the shots at different distances and so forth.

Regards,

Jung
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:41 PM
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I've been using Sierra Reloading manuals and Software for over 30 years.

I can tell you one thing if you load to their recommend Accuracy load it will get you to 90-95% of maximum accuracy.

When you get as anal as I am then it can get out of hand to all the reloading toys that can be had to maximize the accuracy.

Basic needs on top of a press are a good set of stainless steel calipers, a basic balance scale, case trimmer, case de-burrer, primer pocket cleaner, and a vibrating case cleaner, inertia (Looks like a hammer) bullet puller, and lastly a reloading manual.

If you want to go crazy then go look on
Sinclair Internationals Web Site
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALS View Post
I've been using Sierra Reloading manuals and Software for over 30 years.

I can tell you one thing if you load to their recommend Accuracy load it will get you to 90-95% of maximum accuracy.

When you get as anal as I am then it can get out of hand to all the reloading toys that can be had to maximize the accuracy.

Basic needs on top of a press are a good set of stainless steel calipers, a basic balance scale, case trimmer, case de-burrer, primer pocket cleaner, and a vibrating case cleaner, inertia (Looks like a hammer) bullet puller, and lastly a reloading manual.

If you want to go crazy then go look on
Sinclair Internationals Web Site
I already have most the basics. I got an RCBS Partner Press Reloading kit. Plus added some small things to that like a powder trickler, calipers, and a digital scale (I mentioned earlier on this thread that I cannot stand the one that came with it. Took me forever to zero it, and then even longer to measure out the powder correctly) . For the case cleaner, I just put the shells in a little rubbermaid container with the cleaner and shake it around. Then wash it with warm water.
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